June 2007
Lyla's Tips
TIP #1
Carefree Binding
Boutique Techniques from Lyla J. Messinger,
L.J. Designs and The Sewing Place
- Cut binding on bias grain of woven or crosswise grain of knit. Width of strip should equal 3 times the finished desired width, plus 3/8" plus turn of cloth.
- Press a strip of Design Plus™ Ultra-soft Double-sided Fusible paper side up to one long edge on the right side of the fabric. Remove paper.
- Pin the binding to the garment, right side of non-fused binding edge to right side of garment. A slightly contrasting thread color in bobbin attaches binding and doubles as a placement guide for fusing in next step. Stitch binding in place, the width of the desired finished binding.
- With wrong side of garment up on ironing board, turn the raw edge of binding 3/8" (the width of the fusible) to the wrong side so the Ultra-soft will be hidden when binding is in place. Roll the edge of the binding over and fuse the folded edge in place along the bobbin stitching. DO NOT cover bobbin stitching, as the accuracy of your binding width will be compromised. Work small sections at a time, using only the tip of the iron to fuse.
- Working from the right side of the garment, edge stitch the binding in place. An edge stitch foot is helpful, if available. Since the folded edge was placed along the contrast bobbin stitching, your new line of stitching will be positioned perfectly. With the binding fused in place, the width remains consistent and there is no twisting or shifting as you sew.
TIP #2
Controlled Knit Hem
'The Greatest way to hem Slinky™ knit'
Boutique Techniques from Lyla J. Messinger,
L.J. Designs and The Sewing Place
The secret is the super soft fusible called Design Plus™ Ultra-soft Double-sided fusible, a paper backed fusible that drapes beautifully, acts as a stabilizer, and will not gum up the needle.
- Serge finish hem edge, if desired.
- Press Design Plus™ Ultra-soft Double-sided Fusible paper side up, approximately 1/4" from the hem edge on the wrong side of fabric. Remove the paper from fusible.
- Fold and pin the hem allowance to the wrong side. Press the hem allowance, keeping the iron 1/4" away from the serged edge. This allows you to press the hem without creating an unsightly ridge on the outside of the garment. Remove pins before pressing each section.
- Install a stretch double needle, either 2.5mm or 4mm width, in a size to match your fabric. Use a long stitch length, 3.5 – 4mm. Stitch through the adhesive from the right side of the garment. The Design Plus™ Ultra-soft adhesive acts as a stabilizer, so be sure to stitch directly through it, and the fabric will come out from behind the presser foot totally flat, no rippling. The adhesive also bonds the two fabric layers to prevent the fabric from shifting and twisting as you sew.
You won't even know the adhesive is there once you are done, it will drape with the fabric.
TIP #3
Facing Free Neckline
Boutique Techniques from Lyla J. Messinger,
L.J. Designs and The Sewing Place
Eliminate the bulk and added work of adding a facing to a curved neck edge with this simple technique. Using Design Plus™ fusible bias stay tape will stabilize the neck edge and simplify turning the edge of fabric to the inside for stitching.
- Serge Design Plus™ fusible bias stay tape to the neck edge, with fusible side of tape up and wrong side of fabric up. Place the tape 1/4"from the raw edge before serging. Trim excess fabric while serging along the edge of the stay tape. DO NOT stretch the stay tape during application.
No serger? Trim the excess 1/4" from neck edge first, then; zig-zag tape to edge of fabric as above.
- Place garment on ironing board, wrong side up. Turn the edge 3/8" (the width of the stay tape) toward the wrong side of garment, hiding the bias tape, then; fuse in place using the tip of the iron only. Spot fuse center front and back of neck, as well as shoulder seams before fusing the rest of the neck edge.
- Topstitch neck edge from right side of garment. Since the layers are fused together, the usual twisting and shifting are eliminated.
This technique also works well for bias hems and long hemmed edges with drape. Use Design Plus™ Super Fine bias stay tape to eliminate bulk and promote drape.
Lyla's book: Ordinary to Extraordinary: Terrific Treatments for Garment Sewing is full of more great sewing tips and lots of decorative inspiration and how to's.
Lyla J.Messinger – L.J. Designs
Lyla J. Messinger is an internationally recognized designer, author and speaker. She is President of L.J. Designs, a multi-faceted company including L.J. Designs and À La Mode patterns, Design Plus® notions, and TheSewingPlace.com website for fashion sewing enthusiasts. Lyla retired from teaching to pursue her passion to promote fashion sewing by providing simple, stylish garment and accessory patterns, notions, education and inspiration to the sewing public She continaully builds her business with innovation, education, and integrity. Lyla was recently selected as one of nine 'Master Certified Sewing Educators' for SEA (Sewing Educator Alliance). Teachers around the country can now attend classes to earn credits toward their SEA Teacher Certification while they learn to become professional teachers. www.LJDesignsOnline.com and our sister site www.TheSewingPlace.com
For more information about Lyla go to www.ljdesignsonline.com
Thank you
Lyla Messinger
L.J. Designs
Office: 775-853-2207
Fax: 775-853-2217
Cell: 775-846-9295
E: LJMessinger@yahoo.com
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